Juma Mosque in Kokand
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South from Mukimi Park along Turkestan Street, the road forks beside the Guldasta teahouse to cross the Kokand canal bridge that once divided old and new Kokand. Khamza Street runs through this former heart of Muslim learning. The chief survivor is the Juma Mosque, the khanate’s main mosque for Friday worship. Built by Omar Khan between 1809 and 1812 as a magnified version of the rural Ferghana design, it was shut in Soviet times and reopened after restoration in 1989. Non-Muslims may request a gateway glimpse of the vast courtyard beyond, a 22-metre minaret and the mosque’s highlight, a 100-metre- (30-foot-) long iwan, supported by 98 wooden columns from India and decorated in the diverse colour and carving of traditional Ferghana architecture. Nearby is the Amin Beg Madrassah, built for one of Madali’s sons in 1830, but often named after Khomol Khozi, the 1913 restorer responsible for the ornamental fagade of coloured tiles. The madrassah reopened after independence, only to be closed again and reopen as a museum/shop. Among several neighbours were madrassah built by Omar’s mother, Modari Khan, and Khudayar’s brother, Murad Beg. The ornate wooden gate to Hakim Ayin’s madrassah lies within her son’s palace.